From surplus to success: Turning watercress into specialist skincare
GP Kyle Stewart and Professor Emeritus Paul Winyard from Exeter University started Watercress Research with a problem many parents know all too well. Traditional nappy rash creams and especially those for more severe cases, hadn't really changed much in decades, and most were made from unsustainable petroleum-based ingredients with limited effectiveness. They wondered if nature might have a better solution.
Their research led them to watercress and its natural ability to block the enzyme that causes nappy rash. But having a good idea and making it work commercially are very different challenges.
Specialised technology and expertise
While they understood the medical science behind their idea, the team needed to prove their concept worked. To achieve this, they needed specialist help to extract the active compounds from watercress and determine whether it could be done on a large scale. As busy professionals, they had limited time and resources, including the dedicated equipment needed for complex chemical extraction and analysis.
That's where the Biorenewables Development Centre came in. After researching potential partners across the UK, the Watercress Research team were impressed with our responsiveness, specialised knowledge in extraction and bioprocessing, and links with other potential project collaborators. The partnership evolved through multiple phases, starting with validating the presence of urease inhibitors in watercress to provide proof of concept.
We developed a bespoke extraction methodology specifically tailored to watercress processing and provided comprehensive analytical services to characterise bioactive compounds.
Process optimisation was also critical, with us conducting studies that revealed the optimal conditions and extract concentration to provide the best efficacy.
Lab to commercial scale
Our technical support enabled the research team to scale successfully from laboratory to commercial operations. They built their own processing facility based directly on methods created during the projects, building a system capable of processing 300 kilograms of watercress into 230 litres of extract over 15 hours.
Fortunately, during the technical development the Watercress Research team also discovered a reliable and sustainable source of watercress locally to service the demands of the scaling business. The Watercress Company in Dorset produces 70% of the UK's watercress but is required to grow 10-20% extra in case of unexpected demand spikes. This surplus was previously composted, representing a significant waste stream that could now be valorised by the Watercress Research team.
The collaboration has delivered remarkable commercial and technical outcomes. The research team launched their Prof & Doc Skincare range in 2024, with products being praised for helping dry, irritated skin, validating their focus on identifying bioactive compounds within their watercress extract, now trade-marked as Watercress Active®.
International expansion
The business is now progressing through regulatory testing for product claims substantiation and exploring major retail distribution options. Beyond the developing commercial success, the team is also now exploring multiple medical application pathways, including research at John Radcliffe Hospital and products for sports medicine and elderly care applications.
Looking forward, the partnership continues to drive innovation by testing different types of watercress, how the extract changes over time, and developing larger-scale processing methods for international expansion. Plus, they aim to explore potential options for the use of the leftover fibre and protein, aiming for completely zero-waste production.
Kyle Stewart said:
When we first started researching watercress extracts, we had no idea it would lead us down this path. The technology has so much more potential than we originally imagined and the BDC has been crucial in helping us unlock that, and in taking our concept from the lab bench to a production process that we could actually build our business around. With their ongoing input, it's incredibly exciting to think about where this could go next.
What started as a simple question about nappy rash has become a thriving skincare business with global potential, showing how the right partnership can turn an innovative idea into commercial success.
Let's work together
We have worked on 1,500 bio-based projects to date
We have several ways to work with us, including business advisory programmes and self-funded commercial options. We even have the option for you to hire our state-of-the-art laboratory equipment and office space.
